Pork empanadas succeed alone on the merit of the roasted pulled pork, subtly spiced with cumin. The side of mixed, fresh greens makes the dish a filling nosh, but as with a few other sauces at Mojo, the burger’s apricot-mustard “mojo” condiment was distractingly sweet – too much apricot, not enough mustard. The lamb sliders are really made with lamb and beef, served as two good-sized burgers on a soft white bun and topped with pepper-jack cheese. While the chorizo sausage was fresh and spicy and went well with the roasted peppers and Provolone cheese, there was nothing flat about the flatbread it’s just a small pizza with tasty toppings. The dish had the beautiful bite of fresh-made noodles (Stellina Pasta Café makes them), but the flavor-popping scent of lemon and thyme was nearly overpowered by the heat of too much pepper. The former was tagliatelle with sautéed, sliced chicken breast and tomatoes in a butter sauce fragrant with lemon, thyme and pepper. Italian comes in the form of pasta and several flatbreads. But none of this is new for Erhard, who created the tapas at Boogaloo and has worked in several area restaurants, including Annie Gunn’s and Tejas. Same with the five-spice pork belly in black vinegar sauce, its rich, savory-sweetness permeating the slow-roasted tender pork belly, deliciously interlaced with slivers of meat and creamy fat. Hummus is on a lot of menus of late, and perhaps some are made with edamame, but with this creamy, gently spiced dip, Erhard pays homage to the South Asian, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines dotting the South Grand restaurant strip where Mojo resides.
That’s good because you will want to linger over the curried edamame hummus, one of chef-owner Eric Erhard’s many creations. With the brisk and attentive service, we could order a few items and focus on tasting each dish fully, confident in the fact we wouldn’t have to wait long between rounds. Mojo solved the timing issue by enlarging the small kitchen used by the previous tenants, Erato Wine Bar and Parkside Lounge, which in turn solved the crowded table and confused palate problems. Not that I mind the trend as long as you’re aware of the risks – confused palates, ill-timed delivery, surprisingly inflated checks – it’s a fun, convivial way to share the dining experience with friends. Yes, Mojo is another tapas-style/small plates/larger plates/pan-Latin/whatever we call them today restaurant where fancy cocktails and “sliders” are de rigueur and table space for all those plates is at a premium.
Toward the end of our meal at Mojo Tapas Restaurant and Bar, my dining partners looked around with satisfaction, pleased with the food, the revamped interior, the prices and the close proximity to the neighborhood.